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Chef Hiroyuki Kanda crinkled his nose. "When I walk into a sushi restaurant in London, it always smells fishy," he said. "A sushi restaurant serving clean fresh fish should never smell like that." Out of everyone, Mr Kanda should know: crowned with three Michelin stars for his sushi creations at his Tokyo restaurant, and the creator of a national Japanese textbook on sushi making, the chef is one
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