In a Sudanese village, residents were visited by the peacekeepers.Credit...Jehad Nga for The New York Times EL FASHER, Sudan � The changes across the landscape here would have been hard to imagine just a few years ago. The rebel groups that started the war in Darfur in 2003, catalyzing a conflict that has claimed hundreds of thousands of lives, almost seem to have gone into hibernation. So, too, h
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