My first lunch at Yajima Sushi, in Tokyo, felt more like a kidnapping. There were open spots at the counter. But the chef, Susumu Yajima, instructed me to take a seat nearby and wait. Eventually I was summoned to a place directly in front of him, and the attack began: Piece after piece in rapid succession, as Yajima barked orders at me. “Eat now!” he said, milliseconds after passing me a glistenin
![The Ten ‘Commandments’ of Sushi](https://cdn-ak-scissors.b.st-hatena.com/image/square/74d88da7912b242c5a13a119f8f1ba8a4e66100d/height=288;version=1;width=512/https%3A%2F%2Fmiro.medium.com%2Fv2%2Fresize%3Afit%3A1200%2F1%2ASKtYtaQ0GWjRS4TM3FMJvA.jpeg)